*Chiang Mai, the city of amazement*

by baggie on 12:32 AM



Chiang Mai, located amongst the mist covered mountains 700 miles away from Bangkok, with ethnic hilltribe villages, rolling rivers, historic temples, and wild elephants, will definately do you a good hide out from the bustling city of Kuala Lumpur. An adventurous city it could be too, where you could do trekking and river rafting. And not forgetting Chiang Mai is an inspiring city for scenary look outs as well.

Chiang Mai is an easy city to get around. Wander around the temples, visit the art museum, stop for a coffee, or just stroll through the lanes in the old city - now home to funky art shops, small restaurants and boutiques, to get a real feel for the place. You could actually walk around the city (if you do not own a lazy bum), or get around the city with 'Tut Tuts' or a tour van (10am - 4pm for the price of 600 Baht).

Chiang Mai has three distinct seasons.
Cool Season :
November to March the days are beautifully warm, and the evenings cool enough to wear a sweater or light jacket. At higher altitudes, thicker clothing is needed. (Late October to end of February). Average temperature 21º C dropping rapidly at night. The coolest months are December and January.

Hot Season :
April and May can be uncomfortably hot, especially in the afternoon, but nights are cool, and early mornings perfect for sightseeing. (Early March to end of May) Average temperature 29º C. The hottest month is April.

Rainy Season :
The rainy season, roughly from June to mid-October gives a pleasant mix of tropical downpours and bright sunshine, transforming the countryside into a lush green landscape, with masses of tropical flowers. (Early June to end of October). Average temperature 25.º C. The wettest month is September and yes, I went around the streets and city in ponchos, even the night bazaar. Can't help it. I only had 3 days and 2 nights to explore Chiang Mai, and yes my main objective there was to do good shopping. Hehehehe.

Conveniently located on Huay Kaew Road, Holiday Garden Hotel is near Chiang Mai's International Airport and the main business and entertainment areas in Chiang Mai. Well furnished, comfortable rooms equipped with International amenities and views of the outer city, makes the Holiday Garden Hotel an ideal place to stay. The biggest shopping complex in the city and the night bazaar are only 10 minutes away (A regular shuttle to the Night Bazaar is provided by the hotel). The Huay Kaew Coffee Shop and Mae Sa Restaurant has a serene ambiance. The cool greenery provides a soothing bastion from the outside world, and I've spent a mere 1000 Baht a night for that perfect stay. I would definately introduce this 3 star hotel for those of you who are planning to go Chiang Mai in the future.

The old city is the most interesting and historic part of Chiang Mai and where many important temples are located. Back in the 13th century, Old Chiang Mai City was the capital of the powerful Lanna Thai kingdom which ruled the entire region, plus parts of Laos, until the Burmese intervened in the mid 16th century. Remnants of the walls still remain along with city gates and the old moat which was restored in 1800. Although the old city's ruined, you could actually feel the walls are trying to tell you many great stories back then.

Dominating the skyline rising 1,668m above sea level, Doi Suthep mountain west of Chiang Mai city can be seen from almost everywhere in the city. A winding road (157 bends) snakes up through the Doi Suthep National Park, considered a sacred area and a lovely place to enjoy the forest and cool air. Right at the top, sits Wat Phra That Doi Suthep - one of the region's most revered temples and a place of pilgrimage for many Thais. To reach the temple is a hefty climb up 290 steps flanked on each side by a balustrade of impressive nagas (mythical dragon-headed serpents) but its worth it for the views, the beauty of the temple and the cool breeze.

For jewellry shop along Wulai Road (southwest from the moat) - the traditional Silversmiths area where the metal has been crafted for generations. In the grounds of Wat Sri Suphan temple, craftsmen hammer on sheets of pure silver, tracing out intricate filigree designs. Inexpensive and reasonably priced. Even if you're not a shopaholic, you'll be hard pressed not to buy at the famed Night Bazaar. Sandwiched between the east side of the Old City and the Ping River, this sprawling market is filled with handicrafts, souvenirs and general arts and crafts. At night it's also a great place to simply people watch. Located at Chang Klan Road, it opens from 5pm until late. You will see many Mat Sallehs pouring down the streets, devouring themselves on the local handicrafts there.

Trekking to hilltribe villages (long necked women) is now very popular, with many companies offering treks throughout the area. It is important - for your own sake as well as for the villagers themselves - to choose a reputable trekking company. Inevitably the villages closest to Chiang Mai have been affected by tourism, but still retain their culture and identity. Visitors are requested to respect local beliefs and customs when staying at local villages. I never did went and visit their village actually. If you would have read a particular article from The Star newspaper (forgot which issue), the hilltribe villagers aren't that happy with tours to their village. They think that it is offending them, as though as they were weird animals you find in zoos. (you know, normal procedures, snap snap here, snap snap there, villagers were forced to smile just to make the tour agencies happy i guess)

Okay, the moment all shopperholics are waiting for... WHAT TO BUY & WHERE TO BUY (based on my experience)

Hand Painted Umbrellas
The village of Bosang just outside Chiang Mai on the Sankampaeng road, has been making its painted handmade umbrellas for the more than 200 years. Nobody knows why umbrellas are found in this particular village or from where the craft originated, although it is widely speculated that the skill originated in China, and was brought to Chiangmai. Bosang produces beautifully painted umbrellas made from local Saa paper and bamboo to protect against the sun, rather than the rain.

Where to Find: Go by yourself, just south of the city, or take a tour of all the handicraft villages.
Note: Umh, those umbrellas are for decoration purposes, not advisable to bring it out for a stroll under the rain.


Saa Paper
Made from the bark of a local tree, Saa paper makes great gifts. Used as an umbrella covering, for painting, lanterns and stationery products, the paper comes in many colours and is meticulously made by hand. Bark is taken from the Saa tree and boiled for around three hours, then pounded with large wooden mallets against tree stumps until it becomes mush. After pounding it is thrown into large concrete vats and stirred with long bamboo poles until flakes rise to the surface. These flakes are lifted out with blue screens on wood frames. Each screen measures approximately 1 1/2 by 2 feet and the flakes settle on the screen while the water runs through. The screens are then set in the sunlight to dry producing wonderfully textured paper.

Where to Find: Visit the "factory" where the paper is produced at the Bosang handicraft centre on the outskirts south of Chiang Mai City. (Close to the umbrellas) .
Note: Didn't get any of it, cause I thought it would only add up to my pile of junks in my store room, heh.

Lanna Textiles
Lanna textiles are a specialized group of fabrics and designs created in northern Thailand. Traditional Lanna fabric and clothing are much different from what we see in the West. Lanna garments are not cut and seamed, but rather they are squares and rectangles of fabric that are folded, tucked or joined in other ways. Within the squares and rectangles are various designs, borders and embroidery.

Where to Find: Styles and designs vary depending on which ethnic group has produced them and the motifs will identify a clan or village. You can buy textiles at the many handicraft shops in Chiang Mai and the Night Bazaar on Chan Klan road.
Note: Not cheap, I actually took a loving for a beautiful magnificient gold colored Lanna silk with startling beads. It would cost me a 4800 Baht if I wanna take it home with me. *sobs sobs*

Silk
Renowned Thai silk has a wonderfully lustrous quality but is more suitable for tailored garments rather flowing gowns. Many shops offer competitive prices depending on the weight texture of the garment.

Where to Find: Around the Amari Rincome are a number of shops and old family-run silk shops like Patcharin Thai Silk (348 Tapae Road) offer good buys at around 480 Baht a metre for quality cloth. Malai Come near Tapae Gate, (279 Tapae Road) has a great range of silk scarves starting at around 300 Baht.
Note: You will get grossed with the silk wormies (live ones) displayed in the touring room. I bought 2 simple silk pashminas for the price of 490 Baht per piece. A blue and a gold.

Thai Lacquerwork
Chiang Mai is probably best known for its traditional Gold-Leaf Lacquerware. Patterns are traditional northern Thai art forms and are still made with great care at some of Chiang Mai's oldest Lacquerware centres. The process was originally brought to northern Thailand by the Tai Khern people of Chiang Toong, Burma, a few hundred years ago and is now one of Chiang Mai's leading crafts. Bamboo is used as the base wood for many of the high quality Lacquerware items while other woods like Mango are used for lower quality pieces.

Where to Find: Sankampaeng, or Hang Dong just south of Chiangmai on Highway 108, shows this special northern Thai cottage industry with all the various designs and styles of Lacquerware in factories on both sides of the road.
Note: Very expensive. It is advisable to get lacquerworks from the bazaars instead, cheaper there although the workmanship is not up to standard like the ones you find here.

Ceramics - Celadon
Celadon, with its delicate green and blue tones, has long been produced in the North. The blending of local clays and wood ash to make the distinctive glazes has been passed from one generation to another for centuries. Siam Celadon & Tea House at 158 Tapae Road, a magnificently restored, wooden mansion specialises in Celadon pottery. Prices are reasonable (a two foot Celadon lamp, around 800 Baht and a tea set 250 Baht).

Where to Find: Tapae Road and the Sankampaeng area.
Note: Did not get any of it, would prefer those from China.

Silverware
A traditional art, silversmithing in Chiang Mai began centuries ago along Wualai Road, an area still known as the Silver village producing many traditional silver items such as trays, bowls, and boxes.

Where to Find: Tapae Road, Wualai Road and the Sankampaeng area.
Note: What can I say, the silver jewelleries found in Chiang Mai are beautiful and I couldn't resist of not getting one home. I bought one with the price of 780 Baht. (It is lovely, with i-forgot-whats-the-name stone studs gleaming under the light.)

Hilltribe Crafts
The area around Chiang Mai is home to a number of different hilltribes with their own customs and crafts who produce beautifully crafted silver jewellry, colourful embroideries and hand-woven textiles.

Where to Find: Go visit the hilltribe village yourself or find them at the Night Bazaar.
Note: Beware of the hilltribe villagers found in the Night Bazaar. They would approach any tourists with a basketful of accesories, from self-made croaking toad to handmade jewelleries. When the first villager approaches you, in no less than 10 seconds will you be swarmed with a group of them, convincing you to buy their stuffs. You could bargain with them for a dirt cheap price, but then again, they are poor villagers. Always make sure the price you are about to pay is reasonable for both you and themselves.

Food Food & FOOD
Huen Phen hidden among tropical greenery is hard to beat for northern Thai food…if you can find it! Located in the living room of an open-plan traditional wooden mansion, surrounded by Thai antiques. Recommended - Laab (minced pork salad) popular in the north and north-east Thailand, or the nam phrik kab moo (crispy pork dip). Prices start 200 Baht - 500 Baht a dish.

Where to Find: 112 Ratchamangka Road, tel: 277-103) just east of Felix Hotel.
Note: No smoking indoors.

Always opt for a local restaurant. Ask your tour guide to bring you to where THEY have their meals. My tour guide took us to a restaurant situated on a lake. Food there is delicious and cheap!! Me, Calvin, my mother and my step-dad had a hearty meal (8 dishes) there for only 650 Baht!! Mind you, the food portions are so big that a single-person's fried rice could feed two hungry Malaysian eater. So go figure!!

Overall, the trip was a hectic one because we had little time to spare for each stop. There were many more magnificient places that we had skipped, due to the freaking 3 days 2 nights stay. Advisable duration of days to explore Chiang Mai would be a 6 days 5 nights trip. Always end your day in Chiang Mai with a visit to the local pubs, to savor the ever-so-famous Chang's pilsner or Singha's lager beer (600 Baht per big bottle) and a game of free pool. And oh, never forget to visit the spas and traditional massage parlors there. Nothing beats a good massage after a long tiring walk of shoppings, hehehehe.

I had the best time of my life there, exploring every bits of culture and heritage that Chiang Mai would offer. I wish I would have booked my return flight a little more later, never knew Chiang Mai is a wondrous place to be in. I would be looking forward to another memorable trip in Chiang Mai again, and this time it's gonna be a 6 days 5 nights trip there.

p/s: There are just toooooo many pictures that I wanna share with you peeps with and I think if I were to publish all of them on my blog, they're gonna take up a whole damn space. Will publish some of them in my next posts, do not want to ruin my writings, just in case the whole thing jams up and you could hear me swearing a mile away.

* some sources were taken from the internet due to the lack of my ability to remember. *grunts*

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